How to Survive a Home Remodel

The good news is that you’re finally getting the house of your dreams. The bad news is that you need to live through months of remodeling to get there. Living in a house that’s being remodeled is stressful, but if you’re prepared, you can make it easier on the whole family.

Plan Ahead: Find out how long the remodel will take and what it will cost. Explore how the work will disrupt your life and make contingencies for it. Also make plans in case something goes wrong. A power outage or plumbing emergency might necessitate decamping for a couple of days.

Establish Ground Rules: Talk to the contractor about what hours and which days of the week the crew will work. That will make it easier to plan your life around the renovation. Consider getting a portable toilet for the workers so yours will still be available. Tell them where they can park their trucks and establish how they will clean up the work site.

Set up a Living Area: Cover the entrances to the work area with plastic to avoid getting dust in the rest of the house; this will also establish a living area. If you’re having a kitchen remodeling job, set up a temporary kitchen with a microwave and hot plate, and designate a sink for washing dishes. Stock up on bottled water and paper plates and cups. You’ll need them if you lose the use of your plumbing at some point.

Store Your Belongings: Put away anything breakable and delicate. Even if your china cupboard isn’t in the work area, the vibrations from the machinery can cause things to crack or fall. If you can’t move some pieces of furniture, cover them with drop clothes so they won’t get coated in dust.

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Questions To Ask Before Replacing Your Windows

If you’re remodeling your home, you might be thinking about replacing those drafty and hard-to-open windows, but how do you know when the investment is worth it?            The answer depends on the age of the house, your utility bills, and a number of other factors.

•  Expect to pay $250-$700 for each replacement window you can put inside an existing window frame. Double- and triple-glazed windows, or those filled with argon gas, increase energy savings and cost a little bit more. If you buy an Energy-Star rated window, however; it will more than pay for itself in long-term energy-cost savings.
•  If the window frames are rotting, warped, or damaged, then the window installer must re-build the entire frame. Not surprisingly, such a process takes longer and costs as much as 50% to 100% more. Experts estimate that rebuilding a window in a typical house would cost $350 to $1,400 per window.
•  If your windows are old and drafty, then replacing them could save you as much as 25% on your utility bills. An energy audit by a trained professional can help you figure out how much you can save. An audit can tell you how much air and heat escape through your existing windows. Then look at your utility bills. How long would it take you to recoup the cost of the windows?
• Energy-efficient windows can also reduce the demands on heating and air-conditioning equipment. During a home renovation, that would allow you to install smaller pieces of equipment that cost less to purchase and operate.
•  Remember to factor in intangible benefits, such as a more comfortable and up-to-date house. And new windows can increase the resale value of the house.

Now is a particularly good time to get new windows. Through the end of 2010, you can deduct up to $1500 from your taxes for energy-efficient improvements to your house, including new windows.

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What is Passive Solar?

When most people think of solar energy, they think of photovoltaic (PV) cells perched on a building’s roof. But passive solar does not involve the use of specialized equipment; it is the practice of designing a building to maximize the use of the sun’s heat. Passive solar design is highly energy efficient, reducing a building’s energy demands for artificial lighting and heating. Plus energy from the sun is free!

Every passive solar building includes five distinct design elements:

A Collector - a large glass area that allows sunlight in. It can be a set of large, south-facing windows or a separate room like a greenhouse.

An Absorber - a dark surface that absorbs solar heat. This can be as simple as a tiled floor or thick, dark wall.

A Thermal Mass - material that stores the absorbed heat and slowly releases it at night. This can be masonry materials, such as concrete, stone, and brick, or a water tank. Often it is part of a room’s floor or walls.

A Distribution Method - heat’s natural tendency is to move from warmer materials to cooler ones until there is no longer a temperature difference. In some buildings, passive distribution is augmented with fans and ducts.

A Control Mechanism - this regulates the amount of sunlight entering the building. It might just be a roof overhang that allows more sunlight in during the winter and less in the summer. Passive solar is a wonderful way to use the sun’s energy to heat a room. It can also be used in the shoulder seasons to retain heat in a greenhouse or a sunroom.

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To Avoid Pain, Don't Overlook Window Maintenance By Tom Coan

Over-the-mountain homes feature beautiful windows and doors.  Unfortunately, beauty has its price.  These attractive architectural elements are divas – they do not react well if ignored.   Once a window or door begins to deteriorate, the progression is quick.  Restoring it is somewhere between difficult and impossible leaving replacement as the sole, expensive option.  A simple double hung window replacement with architecturally appropriate materials routinely ranges between $800.00 and $1,400.00.  Large, specialty and clad units cost even more.  A front door with transom and sidelights, $2,500.00 to 5,000.00.    $20-, $30- and $40,000 whole house window replacements are common.

The villains in our drama are the elements – sun, wind and water.  Our climate presents doors and windows with a perfect storm of rot-producing conditions.  Blistering sun breaks down paint and caulk.  Daily heating and cooling cycles create tiny crevices.  Water enters in wind-driven sheets.  Winter’s freeze/thaw cycles pry apart wood and paint.  The result is pockets where water collects and saturates raw wood fibers.  Microscopic demolition experts then turn your sturdy window frames to spongy mush.

“Why don’t they just make these things rot proof?” you ask.  They do.  The problem is that they are more expensive.  A home builder operates in a highly competitive environment and must invest in the most marketable features.  Which sounds better for the brochure?, “Enjoy breakfast in the beautiful screened porch off the kitchen.” or “Enjoy possibly not having to replace your windows in 10 years in spite of not taking very good care of them”.  You get my drift.

“Builder grade windows” may sound like a put-down but the truth is that the quality of the factory made wooden windows in most over the mountain homes is quite high.  The manufacturing tolerance are tight and the hardware and adhesives are high quality.  The issue is the nature of wood itself – it’s organic.  Whether it’s a log in the shady forest or a window sill in Vestavia Hills, if it remains damp it will turn back into dirt. Here’s how you keep it from happening to your home:

Caulk.  If there’s a crack, caulk it.  Use the most expensive stuff that’s designed for the job.  I particularly like GeoCel.  They sell it at Cahaba Heights Hardware. 

Paint.  You must keep paint on your windows.  A host of factors affect how long paint will last but assuming you’re starting with a quality paint job, you can expect that some windows will need paint attention at 3 years.  Do-it-yourself is possible but BE CAREFUL ON LADDERS.  If you don't want to DIY, a good painter who routinely checks your exterior paint is an investment, not an expense.

Manage your gutters.  Clogged gutters are a real menace.  Take a Gene Kelly stroll around your home during a hard rain and see where water is running over.  Finding the root cause is usually not difficult once the problem area is pinpointed.  If your gutters routinely clog, either establish a cleaning schedule, hire someone to do it or install one of the anti-clog gutter products.

Adjust your sprinklers.  Often the enemy is us.  A lot of window replacements are first floor units rotted by the sprinkler.  Conduct a bathing suit exploration of your home on a hot day with the sprinkler system running.  Screw the top off the offending sprinkler head.  Towel off and go to your trusty home center.  Show the guy in the sprinkler department your part and tell him how it needs to spray.  He’ll get the right one for you.  Screw it back on. 

If you like a happy endings, follow these steps and you’ll avoid starring in your own production of “The Most Expensive, Avoidable Home Repair”.

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The Hard-Nosed Realist’s Guide to Deck Maintenance

Consider these two facts: 1. The average life span of wooden deck is 15 years.  2. The average price for a simple, pressure-treated wood deck (3 steps off the ground) is $9,075. Add size, stairs,  and a few bells and whistles and the price can easily grow to $20,000.  That's $600.00 to over $1,300.00 per year of service; pretty high rent for a spot to occasionally cook out.  Can you do better? Yes. Experts tell us that pressure treated wood can last many decades with reasonable maintenance. Stretch your deck’s life to 30 years and you save $9,000 to $20,000 compared to your less attentive neighbors. Here’s how you do it.

1.       Do routine mechanical maintenance once a year. Hammer down nails that pop up (be gentle and don’t beat half-moons into the wood).  Screw down stubborn spots where nails repeatedly work their way up. The big box stores sell deck-colored screws complete with a drill/driver bit to fit the head. The ones with the star-shaped slot drive in more easily than the traditional Phillips head style. Occasionally, a board may warp, cup or twist. Replace it. You can’t fight mother nature once she decides to twist a piece of wood. (Note: If you do items 2 and 3 below, your deck will need very little of this kind of maintenance).

2.       Give the deck a good cleaning once or twice a year. How often depends on how much you use it, whether it’s in sun or shade and whether there is a lot of tree matter falling on it. Appearance is, of course, important but the functional reason for cleaning is micro-organisms. They open up spaces between the wood fibers for water to enter. The big box stores sell cleaners for the purpose. You can use inexpensive chemicals like bleach and tri sodium phosphate (TSP) but the commercial products are probably worth it because they reduce the risk of damaging plants, pets or yourself with unsafe concentrations and combinations.  Follow the directions which typically involve hosing down the deck, applying the cleaner with a pump up sprayer, agitating with a brush or stiff broom and rinsing. It doesn’t take that long.  We see decks that have been damaged by pressure washers all the time.  We recommend you NOT use them.

3.       Seal the deck against water. Water is the enemy. Make sure the product you choose is a sealer that keeps water from penetrating wood (in addition to any other properties it may have in terms of enhancing color, sheen etc). How often you need to re-coat depends on your deck’s location and the product you use. As a rule of thumb, if it’s easy to put on (i.e. pump up sprayer), then it’ll probably last a year or two.  If it takes more effort (i.e. rollers, brushes and drop cloths), 3 to 5 years. The way to know for sure is by checking the deck from time to time by pouring a glass of water on it. If it absorbs the water (soaks it up and darkens), then you need to reapply the sealer. Usually, you won’t have to do the whole deck, just the horizontal surfaces.  You’ll also be pleased to know that there's no performance benefit in sealing the underside of the boards.

Follow these simple steps and while your neighbors are having their deck rebuilt, you can avoid the noise by taking a vacation with the money you’ve saved.

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Water Pressure – The Silent Killer

All that money you’ve paid to the waterworks board has resulted in some very impressive water pressure in many of our communities. While high water pressure at the street is generally considered a good thing, it is destructive if it continues unabated into your home where a bunch of expensive devices have to hold it back. Common symptoms of high pressure are water heater leaks/failures, ice maker failures, running toilets, drippy faucets and split garden hoses.

Many homes are equipped with a pressure regulator to step down the street pressure to a level that is safe for household appliances and fixtures. How do you know if your home has one? Look for a little brass/bronze bell shaped gizmo (see pic) on the water pipe that comes into your home. Unfortunately, these regulators are a “wear and tear” item meaning they typically fail after 10 or 15 years. They only way to know if yours is working is to test the pressure.

How do I test the pressure? A. Call a plumber.  Or B. Buy an inexpensive little screw on pressure gauge from one of the big box stores. Screw it on to one of your hose bibs like you would a garden hose and turn on the water. Make sure all the other valves in the house are closed. You’re looking for something in the 45 to 60 PSI range. If it’s a lot higher than that, call a plumber and get the regulator replaced. NOTE: It is not unusual for the hose bib on the front of the house to be plumbed BEFORE the pressure regulator, meaning it will always be at the street pressure. If it doubt, use the bib on the back of the house for your test.

Related water advice: The most catastrophic water disaster is a pipe or hose that bursts while you are away from home. To avoid this nightmare do the following: A. Know where your water cutoff is and know that it works. B. If it doesn’t work, have the plumber install a “quarter turn ball valve” (he’ll know what it is) in a location where you can get to it. C. Put shutting off the water on your vacation checklist. D. Replace the hoses that go to your washing machine if they’re the black rubber kind.  They're a weak link.  Depot and Lowes sell stainless steel wrapped ones that are much stronger.

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No Falls this Fall

Most of my articles focus on saving time and money but this month’s post is aimed at something more precious – your family’s safety. Falls are the second leading cause of accidental death in the U.S. after auto accidents.   Are you exercising appropriate caution?  Hurricanes, tornados and lightning capture headlines but the fact is you’re hundreds of times more likely to be killed by a fall than by any of these dramatic weather events.   Here are some simple things you can do to keep your family safe from falls.

Improve lighting at doorways and stairs. As we age, we see less well in dim light. Of course even a 16 year old can’t see the cat on the basement steps if it’s pitch dark because the light bulb is burned out. Add fixtures and/or put in brighter bulbs.

Fix obvious trip hazards, particularly near stairs. Familiarity breeds contempt. The fact that you didn’t trip on that loose carpet the previous 1,000 times doesn’t reduce the pain when your flip flop snags it on the 1,001^st  pass. Tack down loose carpet or other flooring materials and put non-slip mats under area rugs.

Fix (or add) handrails. Basement stairs are a good place to focus. They tend to be dark and oddly spaced and we’re often carrying things when we’re on them.  They sell brackets and railing at the big box stores. Find the studs and pre-drill the holes for the large screws. The drill bit should be the size of the inner shaft of the screw (not the threads – they need something to bite).

Put grab bars in the bathroom. Baths are particularly nasty places for falls with their combination of slippery surfaces and hard elements to land on. Grab bars can be a reasonable DIY project if you have a drill and follow the directions. If you think they look too clinical visit the plumbing supply showroom or search the internet. There are dozens of designer options. 

Don’t be dumb when you need to reach something up high.   If it isn’t a step stool or ladder, don’t climb on it. The only thing worse than falling and splitting your head open is telling the paramedic you did it standing on a tricycle to change a light bulb. Also, ladders and stools have working heights for a reason. Don’t stand on the top rung!

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Do I need a new dishwasher?

Many of our kitchen clients come to the project hoping that a new dishwasher will eliminate filmy or cloudy glassware.  However, the machine may not be problem.  A little knowledge and some experimentation will improve current dishwasher performance and help you make a good decision about replacement.

First things first – Is the machine working properly?

A dishwasher is a simple machine.  It’s a pump inside a box hooked to a timer.  It sprays water on your dishes and then pumps that water out into the drain.  That’s it.  To determine if it’s working properly, open the door during the wash cycle.  Is everything wet?  Are the washer arms moving freely?  The dishes have to be evenly and repeatedly wetted or they won’t get clean.  A common problem is the little holes in the washer arms getting clogged (clean out with a toothpick).  Other issues are loading items in a way that blocks a washer arm, overloading and nesting items.  If the dirty side of the dish isn’t open and facing the spray, it won’t get clean. 

OK, the mechanical and loading issues check out but your glassware still looks icky.  What gives?

Now we’re into chemistry.  Dishwashing detergent is a mix of chemical compounds that attach to food residue and are then rinsed away.  How well they accomplish this depends on 1. The specific compounds in the detergent, 2. The concentration of those compounds in the wash water, 3. Temperature, 4. Time and 5. The amount and type of soil.  Change the chemistry and you change your cleaning result. 

So where do I start?  

1.       Compounds and their concentration:  Check to see if the haze on your glassware comes off with vinegar or a product like CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover).  If it does, you have food and/or mineral residue so you likely need more detergent or adifferent detergent or both.  If the haze doesn’t come off, the glass is actually etched so you need less detergent or a differentdetergent or both.  (Unfortunately, the etching is permanent so you’ll have to live with it or replace the glassware).   If you use an economy brand detergent, try a premium brand for a while.  The formulations are different.  If you already use a premium, try a different one.  (At my home in Vestavia, we get better results with Cascade Complete).

2.       Heat:  The action of the detergent is faster in hot water.  If the water is too cool, it may not be able to clean everything off before the cycle ends.  If your hot water takes a long time to hit the kitchen sink, use the water pre-heat feature found on most machines (the drying elements comes on and heats the water).

3.       Time:  Many dishwashers have multiple cycles.  Unfortunately, they usually don’t say “long” or “short”.  Experiment and find out which one is the long wash cycle and use it.

4.       Not pre-rinsing: Yes, I said not.  Many detergents have enzymes that need to be activated by food residue.  If they don’t find it, they just float around as crystals that may scratch the glass.

A little patient experimentation will pay dividends in the form of better cleaning results whether your dishwasher is old or new.

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NEW SUNROOMS ARE NOT JUST FOR SUMMER FUN

Designs Offer Natural Light, Panoramic Views and Year Long Enjoyment

It’s every owner’s dream to have more livable space in their existing home. So as homeowners remodel, they are constantly exploring ways to get the most out of their space by designing rooms with a purpose in mind. Sunrooms have become a reemerging trend on the radar screen for homeowners because they provide a year-round, multi-functional area with more natural light, good views and an abundance of livable space without sacrificing comfort.

More and more homeowners are seeing the immediate value in sunrooms as practical year round spaces. Allowing more natural light into the house and mixing the outdoors with indoor living space are two of their strongest attributes.

The rise in popularity among homeowners can be attributed to new design amenities such as sky lights, arching windows, sliding doors, and high performance, climate controlled glass. Previous sunrooms designs consisted of glassed-in porches or decks that were not suited to handle outside climate changes. Over the years, they have evolved into elegant showplaces providing the beauty of outdoor surroundings even when the weather is too hot, too cold, or too rainy to go outside.

No matter what region of the country you live in, sunrooms offer so much versatility for entertaining family and guests or relaxing from the daily grind. They are also a good return on investment when its time to sell your home.

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INVITING FOYERS

Foyers, one of the most important areas in the home, set the tone for guests as soon as they walk through the front door. Serving as a waiting and reception area, foyers are usually where first impressions are made. If your foyer can use a facelift, sprucing up this area of the home can be both fun and simple.

In smaller foyers, where space may be an issue, adding windows will bring in more natural light. New lighting fixtures and large mirrors will give the effect of a larger room. Painting and wallpapering are one of the most cost effective ways to make an immediate impact. By changing the wall color of your foyer, the room can give the illusion of more depth and distinction.

With a larger foyer, adding an elegant light fixture such as a chandelier, gives the room certain stateliness. In addition, incorporating hardwood, marble or stone flooring will differentiate the space from the other rooms in the house. Bringing in furniture also adds to the visual impact.

Have fun with your foyer and allow it to make a unique statement in your home!

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KITCHENS THAT WORK: ELEMENTS THAT MAKE A KITCHEN SPACE FUNCTIONAL

The most efficient and attractive kitchens offer a perfect blend of great use of space and complementary accessories in an attempt to maximize functionality and keep organization in check. Here are five design elements that make a kitchen work.

• Appliance “garages” built between the counter top and cabinets to conceal coffee makers, can openers and frequently used small appliances
• Tilt-out sink front bins take advantage of otherwise unusable space and create convenient storage for sponges and scrubbers – again, keeping clutter off the counter top
• Message centers - organize notes, mail, magazines, keys and everything else for multiple family members – and keep clutter off tables and counters
• Roll-out shelves make otherwise inaccessible space useful for the storage of pots, pans, or seldom-used appliances
• Tray dividers – typically located in the cabinets near the oven – create vertical partitions to separate cookie sheets, muffin tins, and other awkwardly-sized bake ware

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Countertop Options

When you are remodeling your kitchen or bathroom, the choice of countertop will have a big impact on the room’s appearance, but you also want something that will be functional, affordable, and easy to maintain. Here are some popular countertop options – as well as what to look for if you want greener versions of these choices.

SOLID SURFACING

Offers seamless installation and is available in a wide variety of colors – including those that mimic stone. Nonporous and doesn’t stain easily. Can be scorched or nicked. About $40 to $100 per square foot.

CONCRETE

Gives a modern look and can be molded into custom shapes, textured, or stained almost any color. Requires frequent sealing. About $75 to $120 per square foot.

ENGINEERED STONE/QUARTZ

A mix of 93 percent quartz granules and resin. Impervious to heat, acids and stains. Comes in a variety of colors. About $50 to $100 per square foot.

GRANITE

Gives a gorgeous natural look and is very durable. But it needs to be re-sealed periodically to protect it from stains. $45-$200 per square foot.

RECYCLED GLASS

Recycled glass mixed into a cement, concrete, or resin base. Counters can be stained to match the kitchen. $50-$90 per square foot.

STAINLESS STEEL

Gives a modern, professional look and resists heat and stains. But it can be dented and show fingerprints. $100-150 per square foot.

BUTCHER BLOCK

Easy to install and repair. Inexpensive. But it gets cut easily and needs to be sealed or re-finished periodically. $30-$65 per square foot.

GREEN OPTIONS

Although all materials have an impact on the environment, many countertop options have “greener” versions. Solid surfacing can be made of recycled paper or plastic. Some companies specialize in eco- friendly quartz, which is a non-renewable resource, but very plentiful. Stainless steel counters can be made from recycled steel. And, butcher block wood can be made Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified sustainable forests. Bamboo countertops are also available.

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CONVERTING BATHROOMS INTO SPA-LIKE RETREATS

One of today's most popular remodeling trends among homeowners is the decision to convert bathrooms into spa like retreats. Homeowners are expanding the size of their bathrooms and adding larger fixtures such as separate showers and baths, bathroom furniture and decorative fixtures with the goal of transforming their space into more comfortable and stylish area. Some of the most popular trends are free standing baths, whirlpools and above the counter sinks. Homeowners are also adding more color to their bathrooms with hand painted sinks and dual paint color schemes to the walls.

Many are knocking down walls in order to make their bathrooms larger. They want a beautiful, relaxing space, almost retreat like. According to an American Standard Bathroom Habits survey, thirty percent of Americans would be willing to spend more than $10,000 to remake their bathrooms into the ultimate dream space.

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Considerations for Remodeling Older Homes

Living in an older house can be a great experience. Older homes have more character and don’t look just like every other house in the neighborhood. At some point, though, you may think about making the rooms bigger, bringing in more light, or doing a bathroom or kitchen remodeling project. On

the other hand, remodeling older homes brings up its own set of issues. Here are some things to consider before you begin:

EVALUATE THE HOUSE: Have experts examine the plumbing, electrical system, and structure. You will probably need to upgrade the electrical system at the very least, but you should understand what other changes you will need to make. A structural engineer can tell you how much the structure of the house has deteriorated and what changes you can make safely.

CONSIDER THE WALLS: Many walls in older homes are load bearing because builders couldn’t easily support larger spaces. If you can’t remove a wall, create an archway or leave a decorative column to keep the floors above from sagging.

PLAN FOR THE EXTERIOR: If you’re designing an addition, be sure that it harmonizes with the rest of the house. You don’t want something that sticks out like a sore thumb. Sometimes you can use modern materials, but make sure the architectural details remain consistent. Not only will this help to preserve the house’s character, it will ensure that it remains attractive to future old house buyers.

INTERIOR: Preserve as many of the original details – molding, hardware, carving, stenciling – as you can. The remodeled part of the house should echo these little touches. Focus on using similar materials, colors, and construction techniques. See how many parts of the original house you can keep. Repair vintage interior doors. Repair and refinish damaged floors. And reglaze that claw-footed tub!

ENERGY EFFICIENCY: Most older houses aren’t very energy efficient, but a remodeling project gives you the opportunity to change that. See where you have insulation, if any, and plan to add more. Look into replacing windows and exterior doors with more energy efficient models.

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KITCHEN LIGHTING

If you have an unremodeled kitchen from the 50s or 60s, chances are it’s lit by one ceiling-mounted fixture. This, experts observe, is a good example of how not to light a kitchen. A centralized light is likely to cast shadows in the wrong places – like over the sink – or create a glare that overwhelms the kitchen’s décor. To avoid casting too much light in one place and not enough in another, when doing a kitchen remodeling project think of lighting in “layers” – with different kinds of light in different locations.

NATURAL LIGHT –Not only will natural light save you electricity and money, but studies have shown that people exposed to more natural light tend to be happier and work more efficiently. If you’re doing a kitchen remodeling project, think about where the windows are and how big they should be. Natural light shouldn’t be an afterthought.

TASK LIGHTING- So called because it provides the light you need to wash dishes or frost the cake. Task lighting usually comes between the kitchen user’s head and the counter or work surface. For this reason, the bottom of cabinets is a good place to put task lighting, but mount these lights close to the back of the cabinet’s underside to avoid creating glare on the counters. If you’re installing task lighting on the ceiling, think about putting in lights that are adjustable, so the cook can change the position

if necessary. Pendant lamps work well over islands or eating areas, but these are more visible than other varieties of lighting, so make sure they match the room’s décor.

AMBIENT LIGHTING - This soft, indirect light creates the room’s overall illumination. A good place for ambient light is at the top of cabinets where it can bounce off the ceiling and create a welcoming, diffuse glow. You can control the room’s mood by putting these lights on a dimmer switch.

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ROOM AT THE TOP: ATTIC TRANSFORMATIONS

Converting Dark Storage Space into Livable Areas

Once considered a dark and dingy storage area, the utilization of attic space represents a new way of providing an additional area for families to maximize and enjoy. The trend to convert these areas into comfortable bedrooms, home offices, play areas and guest suites are increasing, as homeowners recognize they can acquire additional square footage without having to go outside of the original boundaries of the home.

Many of today’s attic designs focus on being able to transform the underused square footage into an open environment boasting natural light and volume. And just because it’s the attic doesn’t mean it lacks in the amenities department. In fact, the once overlooked square footage rivals many of the other rooms in the home featuring modern amenities such as recessed lighting, crown molding, built-in cabinetry, hardwood floors and a multitude of options, delivering high style, elegance and function, defining a new brand of attic living.

There has been a dramatic increase in the number of homes that are transforming their attics into livable areas. It’s every homeowners dream to have more space. Attics are a great source of untapped, inexpensive living space. With the right design, an attic can be as inviting as any room in the home, increasing the appraisal value without having to add new space.

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Attic Remodeling

Need space for a custom home office, guest room, bathroom, children’s play area, or even a master bedroom? Look up...to the attic! An attic remodeling project can bring extra square feet of usable space to your house without a lot of added cost. Before you start planning for your home renovation, here are a few considerations:

EVALUATE THE SPACE: If you don’t have permanent stairs leading to the attic, you’ll need them. Most staircases need 10 to 14 square feet of floor space. Similarly, most municipalities require 7 1⁄2 feet of head room in a living space. Is your ceiling high enough? Think about how you will heat and cool the space. Will you need to add ducts and insulation? Consider the flooring. Is it sturdy enough to support a load of people and heavy furniture?

CONSIDER THE LIGHT: Lots of attics are windowless, but there are many ways to address that. Consider adding windows or skylights. If the new space is a bedroom, you can install a skylight with remote-controlled shades for privacy – and sleeping in on the occasional morning. Painting the walls white and installing mirrors helps to reflect the light you do have and creates a feeling of spaciousness.

MAKE STORAGE ROOM: Many attics are on the small side and have sloping roofs. You need to maximize all of the available space. Be creative and think about built-ins. Sloping shelves can be built in along one end of the attic. You might be able to build in seating with storage inside it. Don’t waste the area under the eaves, which can be the perfect place to put shelves or cabinets.

ADD MORE SPACE: A dormer can really expand the sense of space in an attic addition. You can even add a shed dormer, which is a longer set of windows that runs along most of one side of the roof. This can open up the attic space and give you more head room – without incurring major expenses.

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Double Your Living Space by Renovating Your Basement

Homeowners who are looking for extra space in their house often look down...to the basement. Basements are the ideal place to add entertaining/game rooms, exercise rooms, playrooms, media rooms, or extra guest rooms. Regardless of how you plan to use the space, there are a number of factors to address during a basement remodeling project:

ENSURE YOUR LIGHTING IS ADEQUATE

No one wants to hang out in a dimly lit basement. Maximize the natural light by widening windows if possible. Installing a French door allows more light from the outside. Make use of mirrors and light paint colors to reflect the available light. You probably need stronger illumination than in the rest of the house. Proper lighting helps create the ambience you seek.

USE ALL AVAILABLE SPACE

A claustrophobic feeling in the basement will make it less inviting. Using an open floor plan makes the rooms feel more spacious. If you have pipes or ducts running along the ceiling, see if you can relocate them. Since basement ceilings are usually lower than in the rest of the house, you want to eliminate anything that makes it feel even lower.

TEMPERATUR CONTROL IDEAS FOR BASEMENTS

Since most basements are underground, they are cooled by the soil’s naturally lower temperatures. In order to transform your basement into a true living space, you may need to consider adding another heat source or additional ducts. If the floor is concrete, installing carpet can make it feel warmer underfoot.

CONSIDER BATHROOMS

When people are enjoying your new downstairs, it can become inconvenient to run upstairs for the bathroom. Especially if you have a guest room downstairs, you should consider a half bath in the basement.

FLOORING OPTIONS THAT WORK IN DAMP AREAS

If your basement already has a water problem, think twice about installing wall-to-wall carpeting. Instead use tile, vinyl, or area rugs (which can be cleaned). Real wood flooring doesn’t usually work in basements because excess moisture in the air makes the boards warp, but plastic laminate floors can give a wood look without the same moisture concerns.

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Bringing Light Into Your Home

It turns out that natural light is good for human beings. Employees in buildings with natural light are more productive and students in schools with more natural light have fewer absences and higher test scores. Natural light can also reduce your electricity and heating bills, helping the environment and saving you money. It’s a win, win, win! So when you’re planning your home remodeling project, be sure to think about how to bring in natural light.

WINDOWS: Install windows in locations where they can bring in more light. South- facing windows are the best for getting sunshine around the clock, so take advantage of your southern exposures. Consider clerestory windows. These high windows allow light to penetrate deep into a room. Ensure you get the right kind of window for your climate; insulation, solar gain, and the number of panes all affect how much light and heat your window lets in.

SKYLIGHTS: If windows aren’t bringing in sufficient light, think about installing a skylight. Today’s models are energy efficient and unlikely to leak like the skylights of earlier eras. If you want to bring light into a room that has an attic above it, consider a tubular skylight. This device collects light through a clear window on your roof and the tube’s mirrored interior reflects the light downward into the room. Depending on its size, one tube can light a 100 to 600 square foot room.

REFLECTIVE SURFACES: You can maximize your natural light by encouraging it to bounce around the room. Pale wall colors and white ceilings will make a room feel brighter and more spacious. White windowsills also help reflect light into a room. And don’t forget the value of some well-placed mirrors.

LIGHT FIXTURES: Of course, you need to make do with artificial light at night. Consider lights such as chandeliers with crystals that diffuse and reflect light. Put task lighting over counters or reading areas so homeowners will have light where they need it.

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Remodeling For Retirement

The word “retirement” conjures up visions of seniors living it up in Florida. But the fact is that 70% of senior Americans spend the rest of their lives in the same place they were when they turned 65.

If you’re planning for the future, think carefully about your home. How easy will it be to climb multiple staircases? Could you open doors and turn knobs? Will you be able to reach the necessary things in your kitchen?

If the answers to these questions are mostly “no,” you should consider remodeling your house with easy living in mind– and it’s better to make these renovations before you need them. Universal design takes into account the needs of all of a home’s occupants. Below are some principals that home remodelers consider.

EXTERIOR

At least one entrance to the house should be “barrier free.” Not only does this mean ramps but also paying attention to curbs or doorframes that might trip someone up. Outside lighting should be good.

INTERIOR

The best easy living design puts all the rooms you need – kitchen, living room, bedroom, bath- room, laundry room—on one level. Or consider installing an elevator. You also need wider corridors and doorways. Floors should be made of non-slip materials.

KITCHEN

A kitchen remodeling project should plan to lower the stove, cabinets, and counters to bring them within reach of someone seated. You should have floor space for maneuverability. Pull- out or pull-down fixtures in cabinets also help.

BATHROOM

A kitchen remodeling project should plan to lower the stove, cabinets, and counters to bring them within reach of someone seated. You should have floor space for maneuverability. Pull- out or pull-down fixtures in cabinets also help.

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Five Ways to Update Your Bathroom

You’re living in 2011, but your bathroom is stuck in 1968. Sound familiar? Below are some tips for remodeling your bathroom for the 21^st century. For additional ideas, check out the picture of remodeled bathrooms in our portfolio (http://birmingham.caseremodeling.com/portfolio)

ADD MORE LIGHT: See if there are ways to bring in more natural light through windows or skylights. Natural light will save on energy costs, and it makes you feel better. Next, turn to artificial light. Be sure to have ambient lights recessed in the ceiling and task lighting over the shower/tub and sink. Place mirrors strategically to amplify the existing light, making your bathroom feel more spacious and airy.

UPDATE YOU FIXTURES: Although the look of a toilet hasn’t changed much over the years, sinks, showers, and bathtubs have become fancier and more stylish. Vessel sinks are very popular and come in a wide variety of colors and materials. Shower stalls have become sleek and glass-enclosed, while tubs can be vintage or modern to match the mood of your bathroom. If you purchase low-water fixtures, they will also lower your water costs and energy bills (by using less hot water).

DO A COLOR MAKEOVER: Chances are your bathroom was decorated in the colors that were popular when your house was built. Is it pink? Turquoise? Bright yellow? Even a quick and inexpensive repainting job would be an improvement. However, replacing the tile and countertop would really give the place a new look. But choose fairly neutral colors; they age better.

THINK SPA: Lots of homeowners want their bathrooms to feel like a soothing retreat from the world. Consider light blues and whites for a calming feeling and put the lights on a dimmer switch. Soothing music can be piped in by installing a sound system (one that can stand up to humidity). For luxurious spa-like features, plan for a steam room, shower with multiple water jets, or a whirlpool tub.

USE NATURAL MATERIALS: Stay away from acrylic shower surrounds and particle board vanities. Instead, consider ceramic, recycled glass, or stone tiles in the shower or on the floor. Cabinets and floors can be made from bamboo – a sustainable, fast growing grass. Even sink basins can be made of pottery, carved marble, bronze, or stone mosaic.

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Guild Quality Press Release

CASE Design/Remodeling wins GuildQuality’s 2010 Guildmaster Award

Birmingham, AL – May 2, 2010

CASE Design/Remodeling, a leading home improvement company in Birmingham, Alabama, announced today that the company has been awarded a 2010 Guildmaster Award for exceptional customer satisfaction. CASE Design/Remodeling was one of 139 home builders, remodelers, developers and contractors throughout North America recognized for their superlative performance.

Tom Coan, Owner of CASE, said, “We’re tremendously proud of the Guildmaster Award. The CASE team takes great pride in providing superior design, construction quality, value and security.  Our goal is to keep listening to our clients and continually improve our service.”

Geoff Graham, founder and president of GuildQuality, added, "Over and over again, Case clients repeated the same kind of praise in their survey responses: the Case team is filled with wonderful people who are honest, responsive and extremely capable. We're pleased to be able to recognize them for their exceptional performance."

About CASE Design/Remodeling

CASE Design/Remodeling is a leading home improvement company serving metropolitan Birmingham.  CASE’s two divisions, Design/Remodeling and Handyman Services, earn superior consumer ratings for service, quality and value.  CASE remodeling projects have won numerous awards for design and craftsmanship. For more information on CASE Design/Remodeling, please visit www.Birmingham.CaseRemodeling.com or call 205-968-6000.

About GuildQuality

North America’s best builders, remodelers, contractors and real estate developers rely on GuildQuality’s customer satisfaction surveying to help them monitor and improve the quality of their service.

About the Guildmaster Awards

Once a year, GuildQuality recognizes exceptional customer service with the Guildmaster Awards. Visit the Guildmaster section of the GuildQuality website to see information about all 2010 Award Winners and read about the award qualifications.

For more information, visit www.guildquality.com or contact marketing@guildquality.com