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Design ideas, resources and project logs from Case Design/Remodeling in Birmingham, AL
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Style meets Accessibility
Do you need a bath that focuses on accessibility, but you have concerns that you may give up style and hurt your home’s resale value? Worry no more! CASE Design and Remodeling can transform your bath into a beautiful and functional space. The CASE team strives to design a gorgeous bath for those whose focus is convenience and ease-of-use. No matter if it is widening a door, adding a shower bar, or installing a shower with a bench, the CASE team knows how to add those special details that can make your bathroom more comfortable.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Thursday, October 27, 2011
We Match our Client's Vision!
An outdated bathroom gets a makeover and becomes a light and bright refuge!
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Monday, August 15, 2011
Master Bath Transformations: It’s Your Turn!
Featured in the Fall Issue of Remodel Birmingham . . .
Empty nest or opportunity? It all depends on how you look at it. Alane and Rick Larimer and Clare and William Hays represent an increasing number of couples in the Birmingham market. As their children successfully take wing, they’re taking the opportunity to enjoy a little well earned luxury with a master bath remodel.
Luxury, Style and Personality
The Birmingham market reflects the national trend toward more luxurious, customized baths. Clients are exploring a broad range of design possibilities to create a personalized space that reflects their personality. Some of the elements they are incorporating include
Luxury showers. Showers are becoming larger and the Hays and Larimer projects were no exception. They both expanded their showers significantly as part of their remodels. Performance showering options like hand showers, rain heads, his and hers valves and body sprays have moved past trendy and into the mainstream and they are well represented in these projects. Shower seating is moving away from the tiled box approach to floating designs which allow for more foot room. The Larimers used the same granite from the vanity top for their seat. The Hays reflect another mini-trend which is foregoing the full seat for a smaller foot rest in the corner to make leg shaving more comfortable.
Deep tubs. Those who enjoy a tub bath are increasingly selecting styles that have a smaller footprint than the soaker tubs of the 1980s but with taller sides. The net effect is a deep, full-body soak with less water. As with the shower, hand-showers can add functionality for bathing and make cleaning easier. Jetted whirlpool tubs are no longer the de facto standard that they were 25 years ago but for those who enjoy them, the pump system on current models like the Hays selected are much easier to keep clean.
Stone, porcelain and glass tile. These materials dominate the bath because they’re beautiful and they function well in a wet environment. What’s changed is the explosion of options of size, shape and finish. Very large floor tile (the Larimer’s tile are 21”) are beautiful and create fewer grout lines for cleaning. While these new options provide more design possibilities, they also call for more design skill to get a cohesive result.
Heated floors and towel racks. These items are a perfect offset to the tile elements which by their nature feel cool to the touch. The Hays and Larimers both selected systems with programmable thermostats to save energy and make their first footsteps comfortable on a cold morning.
Upgraded lighting. More (and more flattering) lighting is a foundational element in a good bath project. The Hays and Larimers added recessed lights for general illumination along with upgraded surface mount fixtures at key dressing locations. The Larimers chose to mirror mount their vanity fixtures which provides a flattering light as well as highlights the beauty of fixture itself. The Hays included a lighted make up mirror in Clare’s dressing area.
Value.
Over the past two years, attention to value has increased for all project types, including the luxury bath. According to Tom Coan, Owner of Case Design/Remodeling, “Clients who in the past might have done a master suite addition are now choosing to work inside the existing master bath / master closet footprint”. He notes that, “the key to success is careful, creative design and allocating space very thoughtfully to the things that matter most to the client”. Both the Larimers and the Hays ended up with more open and functional designs than they had before without adding floor space. Re-using instead of replacing is another growing ethic with remodelers and clients alike. For example, the Hays repurposed cabinets in the master closet rather than purchase an expensive closet system and the Larimers retained their wall mount toilet that looked right with their design and functioned well.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Build Log 3
As this week starts, rough inspections have just finished up. The installation of drywall and cabinets begins!
With wiring and plumbing signed off we install insulation
Drywall is now covering what was just the wooden frame of the house
Cabinets go in next. This is the beginning of the end of this project!
Next we will be templating for granite counter tops...
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Job in Progress: Build Log 2
Week 2 of the build log: DEMOLITION
We deconstruct the original room down to the "bare bones".
Another surprise--we found some non-functional plumbing behind the wall where the sink had been.
The next step is installing the "behind the scenes" electrical and plumbing requirements and fixing any "curiosities" found during demolition.
This is also the time to do little things that will make a big difference in the long run.
For example, before new flooring is installed, we check the sub-floor and nail down loose pieces to prevent squeaky floors.
We will now call for framing, plumbing, and electrical inspections. Once we are signed off we're on our way to sheetrock and cabinets!
Monday, July 11, 2011
Job In Progress: Build Log Day 1
Over the next six weeks, we will show you a current kitchen remodel from start to finish!
Phase 1: Planning
This is "before" kitchen. The clients want a change and this is the starting point.
The next step is bringing together the clients' vision, goals and budget into a detailed plan.
The Vision . . .
And the Details . . .
The Vision . . .
And the Details . . .
Phase 2: Demolition
Remodeling can be a big mess. Before we start we make sure everything is protected from dust and dirt.
--Dust Protection Is Job #1
--Dust Protection Is Job #1
Surprise!
Live wires found behind a wall!
Potential hazard and definitely doesn’t meet code! When remodeling, expect the unexpected!
Check back next week for the next step in the process!!!
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Seminars are back!
Our popular remodeling seminars for Birmingham are back! They will occur Thursday August 25th and Thursday September 22nd at 6:30 p.m.
Remodeling is hard to buy. It's an infrequent purchase in a confusing marketplace. Where do you start? How do you make sure you get the best value? Our free public seminars are designed to help you answer these questions. Each session is jam packed with detailed information covering a broad range of options. You'll get the nitty gritty on budgeting along with planning outlines and design ideas. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, we'll help you avoid costly mistakes. If you hire others, you'll be a much better informed consumer.
Here is a preview of our seminar:
Here is a preview of our seminar:
Seminar 040711
Monday, June 20, 2011
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Case Remodeling Advises Birmingham Residents on New Rules for Lead Protection
Birmingham, AL, April 14, 2010 – Case Remodeling notes that if you’re doing a home renovation project on a house built before 1978, you need to be aware of potential lead paint on your walls, windows, or doors. Deteriorating lead paint can be hazardous to those who swallow or inhale it, particularly children under six. Home remodeling activities can disturb existing lead-based paint and create hazardous lead dust and chips. Effective April 22nd, 2010, a new U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) rule requires certification for contractors performing renovation, repair, and painting projects in homes built before 1978. Contractors, including remodelers, painters, and other specialists, must complete special training and follow specific work practices to contain lead contaminated material. According to Tom Coan, Owner of CASE Remodeling, “If you are hiring a company to do work on your pre-1978 home, ask if they are certified to perform lead-safe work practices and ask to see a copy of their certification”. Before starting work, renovators must give homeowners an EPA pamphlet explaining the dangers of lead paint. The EPA requirements do not apply to minor maintenance when less than six square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed inside a house or less than 20 square feet outside. However, window replacement is not considered minor maintenance. If you plan to do your own renovation work on a pre-1978 home, be sure to visit the EPA’s website (www.EPA.gov) to learn about lead safe practices.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Nine Home Energy Tips
Data from the U.S. Department of Energy suggests that heating and cooling are the largest energy expenses in most homes across the U.S. As most homeowners look for ways to reduce their energy usage and save on their utility bills, here are nine helpful tips to make your home more energy efficient.
1. Energy saving appliances- In the kitchen, energy and water usage can be greatly reduced by up to fifty percent with energy efficient appliances.
2. Lighting- Replace standard light bulbs with CFL’s. They last up to ten times as long and use one-fourth of the energy. Skylights are also a great way to brighten up dimly lit areas and save on electricity.
3. Windows- Window replacement will dramatically reduce your energy usage. New energy efficient windows are twice as efficient as the average window produced ten years ago. They are available in a variety of options and designs. If new windows are not in your budget, you can boost your home’s energy efficiency by repairing older windows that are rotted, damaged with cracked glass or missing putty.
4. Walls- Make sure that any exterior wall penetrations into the house (including dryer vents, cable television lines, power lines, gas lines, or hose bibs) are properly sealed from both the outside and inside. Make sure all interior access points into unconditioned spaces (includes attic or basement/crawlspace access) are tightly closed and well insulated.
5. Basements- Seal basements and crawlspaces with caulk, spray foam, or weather-stripping. This will have a great impact on improving your comfort and reducing utility bills.
6. Attics- Adding extra insulation to your attic can make your home more comfortable in the winter months, in addition to lowering your energy bills. A foot of fiberglass or cellulose insulation in the attic floor is recommended as a cost-effective measure
7. Plumbing- Insulate hot water pipes and add a re-circulating valve at the far end of a water supply stack. Put in low flow shower heads to regulate the times when you need hot water
8. Hot Water Heater- Make sure to replace your hot water heater with an energy efficient model. Also, invest in a hot water heater jacket. The jacket costs around twenty-five dollars and can potentially save ten to twenty dollars a month in energy costs.
9. Inspection- Have a specialist look over your HVAC system at least once a year to ensure that your system is running at optimal performance
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
How to Survive a Home Remodel
The good news is that you’re finally getting the house of your dreams. The bad news is that you need to live through months of remodeling to get there. Living in a house that’s being remodeled is stressful, but if you’re prepared, you can make it easier on the whole family.
Plan Ahead: Find out how long the remodel will take and what it will cost. Explore how the work will disrupt your life and make contingencies for it. Also make plans in case something goes wrong. A power outage or plumbing emergency might necessitate decamping for a couple of days.
Establish Ground Rules: Talk to the contractor about what hours and which days of the week the crew will work. That will make it easier to plan your life around the renovation. Consider getting a portable toilet for the workers so yours will still be available. Tell them where they can park their trucks and establish how they will clean up the work site.
Set up a Living Area: Cover the entrances to the work area with plastic to avoid getting dust in the rest of the house; this will also establish a living area. If you’re having a kitchen remodeling job, set up a temporary kitchen with a microwave and hot plate, and designate a sink for washing dishes. Stock up on bottled water and paper plates and cups. You’ll need them if you lose the use of your plumbing at some point.
Store Your Belongings: Put away anything breakable and delicate. Even if your china cupboard isn’t in the work area, the vibrations from the machinery can cause things to crack or fall. If you can’t move some pieces of furniture, cover them with drop clothes so they won’t get coated in dust.
Questions To Ask Before Replacing Your Windows
If you’re remodeling your home, you might be thinking about replacing those drafty and hard-to-open windows, but how do you know when the investment is worth it? The answer depends on the age of the house, your utility bills, and a number of other factors.
- Expect to pay $250-$700 for each replacement window you can put inside an existing window frame. Double- and triple-glazed windows, or those filled with argon gas, increase energy savings and cost a little bit more. If you buy an Energy-Star rated window, however; it will more than pay for itself in long-term energy-cost savings.
- If the window frames are rotting, warped, or damaged, then the window installer must re-build the entire frame. Not surprisingly, such a process takes longer and costs as much as 50% to 100% more. Experts estimate that rebuilding a window in a typical house would cost $350 to $1,400 per window.
- If your windows are old and drafty, then replacing them could save you as much as 25% on your utility bills. An energy audit by a trained professional can help you figure out how much you can save. An audit can tell you how much air and heat escape through your existing windows. Then look at your utility bills. How long would it take you to recoup the cost of the windows?
- Energy-efficient windows can also reduce the demands on heating and air-conditioning equipment. During a home renovation, that would allow you to install smaller pieces of equipment that cost less to purchase and operate.
- Remember to factor in intangible benefits, such as a more comfortable and up-to-date house. And new windows can increase the resale value of the house.
Now is a particularly good time to get new windows. Through the end of 2010, you can deduct up to $1500 from your taxes for energy-efficient improvements to your house, including new windows.
What is Passive Solar?
Every passive solar building includes five distinct design elements:
A Collector - a large glass area that allows sunlight in. It can be a set of large, south-facing windows or a separate room like a greenhouse.
An Absorber - a dark surface that absorbs solar heat. This can be as simple as a tiled floor or thick, dark wall.
A Thermal Mass - material that stores the absorbed heat and slowly releases it at night. This can be masonry materials, such as concrete, stone, and brick, or a water tank. Often it is part of a room’s floor or walls.
A Distribution Method - heat’s natural tendency is to move from warmer materials to cooler ones until there is no longer a temperature difference. In some buildings, passive distribution is augmented with fans and ducts.
A Control Mechanism - this regulates the amount of sunlight entering the building. It might just be a roof overhang that allows more sunlight in during the winter and less in the summer. Passive solar is a wonderful way to use the sun’s energy to heat a room. It can also be used in the shoulder seasons to retain heat in a greenhouse or a sunroom.
To Avoid Pain, Don't Overlook Window Maintenance By Tom Coan
Over-the-mountain homes feature beautiful windows and doors. Unfortunately, beauty has its price. These attractive architectural elements are divas – they do not react well if ignored. Once a window or door begins to deteriorate, the progression is quick. Restoring it is somewhere between difficult and impossible leaving replacement as the sole, expensive option. A simple double hung window replacement with architecturally appropriate materials routinely ranges between $800.00 and $1,400.00. Large, specialty and clad units cost even more. A front door with transom and sidelights, $2,500.00 to 5,000.00. $20-, $30- and $40,000 whole house window replacements are common.The villains in our drama are the elements – sun, wind and water. Our climate presents doors and windows with a perfect storm of rot-producing conditions. Blistering sun breaks down paint and caulk. Daily heating and cooling cycles create tiny crevices. Water enters in wind-driven sheets. Winter’s freeze/thaw cycles pry apart wood and paint. The result is pockets where water collects and saturates raw wood fibers. Microscopic demolition experts then turn your sturdy window frames to spongy mush.
“Why don’t they just make these things rot proof?” you ask. They do. The problem is that they are more expensive. A home builder operates in a highly competitive environment and must invest in the most marketable features. Which sounds better for the brochure?, “Enjoy breakfast in the beautiful screened porch off the kitchen.” or “Enjoy possibly not having to replace your windows in 10 years in spite of not taking very good care of them”. You get my drift.
“Builder grade windows” may sound like a put-down but the truth is that the quality of the factory made wooden windows in most over the mountain homes is quite high. The manufacturing tolerance are tight and the hardware and adhesives are high quality. The issue is the nature of wood itself – it’s organic. Whether it’s a log in the shady forest or a window sill in Vestavia Hills, if it remains damp it will turn back into dirt. Here’s how you keep it from happening to your home:
Caulk. If there’s a crack, caulk it. Use the most expensive stuff that’s designed for the job. I particularly like GeoCel. They sell it at Cahaba Heights Hardware.
Paint. You must keep paint on your windows. A host of factors affect how long paint will last but assuming you’re starting with a quality paint job, you can expect that some windows will need paint attention at 3 years. Do-it-yourself is possible but BE CAREFUL ON LADDERS. If you don't want to DIY, a good painter who routinely checks your exterior paint is an investment, not an expense.
Manage your gutters. Clogged gutters are a real menace. Take a Gene Kelly stroll around your home during a hard rain and see where water is running over. Finding the root cause is usually not difficult once the problem area is pinpointed. If your gutters routinely clog, either establish a cleaning schedule, hire someone to do it or install one of the anti-clog gutter products.
Adjust your sprinklers. Often the enemy is us. A lot of window replacements are first floor units rotted by the sprinkler. Conduct a bathing suit exploration of your home on a hot day with the sprinkler system running. Screw the top off the offending sprinkler head. Towel off and go to your trusty home center. Show the guy in the sprinkler department your part and tell him how it needs to spray. He’ll get the right one for you. Screw it back on.
If you like a happy endings, follow these steps and you’ll avoid starring in your own production of “The Most Expensive, Avoidable Home Repair”.
The Hard-Nosed Realist’s Guide to Deck Maintenance
Consider these two facts: 1. The average life span of wooden deck is 15 years. 2. The average price for a simple, pressure-treated wood deck (3 steps off the ground) is $9,075. Add size, stairs, and a few bells and whistles and the price can easily grow to $20,000. That's $600.00 to over $1,300.00 per year of service; pretty high rent for a spot to occasionally cook out. Can you do better? Yes. Experts tell us that pressure treated wood can last many decades with reasonable maintenance. Stretch your deck’s life to 30 years and you save $9,000 to $20,000 compared to your less attentive neighbors. Here’s how you do it.1. Do routine mechanical maintenance once a year. Hammer down nails that pop up (be gentle and don’t beat half-moons into the wood). Screw down stubborn spots where nails repeatedly work their way up. The big box stores sell deck-colored screws complete with a drill/driver bit to fit the head. The ones with the star-shaped slot drive in more easily than the traditional Phillips head style. Occasionally, a board may warp, cup or twist. Replace it. You can’t fight mother nature once she decides to twist a piece of wood. (Note: If you do items 2 and 3 below, your deck will need very little of this kind of maintenance).
2. Give the deck a good cleaning once or twice a year. How often depends on how much you use it, whether it’s in sun or shade and whether there is a lot of tree matter falling on it. Appearance is, of course, important but the functional reason for cleaning is micro-organisms. They open up spaces between the wood fibers for water to enter. The big box stores sell cleaners for the purpose. You can use inexpensive chemicals like bleach and tri sodium phosphate (TSP) but the commercial products are probably worth it because they reduce the risk of damaging plants, pets or yourself with unsafe concentrations and combinations. Follow the directions which typically involve hosing down the deck, applying the cleaner with a pump up sprayer, agitating with a brush or stiff broom and rinsing. It doesn’t take that long. We see decks that have been damaged by pressure washers all the time. We recommend you NOT use them.
3. Seal the deck against water. Water is the enemy. Make sure the product you choose is a sealer that keeps water from penetrating wood (in addition to any other properties it may have in terms of enhancing color, sheen etc). How often you need to re-coat depends on your deck’s location and the product you use. As a rule of thumb, if it’s easy to put on (i.e. pump up sprayer), then it’ll probably last a year or two. If it takes more effort (i.e. rollers, brushes and drop cloths), 3 to 5 years. The way to know for sure is by checking the deck from time to time by pouring a glass of water on it. If it absorbs the water (soaks it up and darkens), then you need to reapply the sealer. Usually, you won’t have to do the whole deck, just the horizontal surfaces. You’ll also be pleased to know that there's no performance benefit in sealing the underside of the boards.
Follow these simple steps and while your neighbors are having their deck rebuilt, you can avoid the noise by taking a vacation with the money you’ve saved.
Water Pressure – The Silent Killer
All that money you’ve paid to the waterworks board has resulted in some very impressive water pressure in many of our communities. While high water pressure at the street is generally considered a good thing, it is destructive if it continues unabated into your home where a bunch of expensive devices have to hold it back. Common symptoms of high pressure are water heater leaks/failures, ice maker failures, running toilets, drippy faucets and split garden hoses.
Many homes are equipped with a pressure regulator to step down the street pressure to a level that is safe for household appliances and fixtures. How do you know if your home has one? Look for a little brass/bronze bell shaped gizmo (see pic) on the water pipe that comes into your home. Unfortunately, these regulators are a “wear and tear” item meaning they typically fail after 10 or 15 years. They only way to know if yours is working is to test the pressure.
How do I test the pressure? A. Call a plumber. Or B. Buy an inexpensive little screw on pressure gauge from one of the big box stores. Screw it on to one of your hose bibs like you would a garden hose and turn on the water. Make sure all the other valves in the house are closed. You’re looking for something in the 45 to 60 PSI range. If it’s a lot higher than that, call a plumber and get the regulator replaced. NOTE: It is not unusual for the hose bib on the front of the house to be plumbed BEFORE the pressure regulator, meaning it will always be at the street pressure. If it doubt, use the bib on the back of the house for your test.
Related water advice: The most catastrophic water disaster is a pipe or hose that bursts while you are away from home. To avoid this nightmare do the following: A. Know where your water cutoff is and know that it works. B. If it doesn’t work, have the plumber install a “quarter turn ball valve” (he’ll know what it is) in a location where you can get to it. C. Put shutting off the water on your vacation checklist. D. Replace the hoses that go to your washing machine if they’re the black rubber kind. They're a weak link. Depot and Lowes sell stainless steel wrapped ones that are much stronger.
No Falls this Fall
Improve lighting at doorways and stairs. As we age, we see less well in dim light. Of course even a 16 year old can’t see the cat on the basement steps if it’s pitch dark because the light bulb is burned out. Add fixtures and/or put in brighter bulbs.
Fix obvious trip hazards, particularly near stairs. Familiarity breeds contempt. The fact that you didn’t trip on that loose carpet the previous 1,000 times doesn’t reduce the pain when your flip flop snags it on the 1,001st pass. Tack down loose carpet or other flooring materials and put non-slip mats under area rugs.
Fix (or add) handrails. Basement stairs are a good place to focus. They tend to be dark and oddly spaced and we’re often carrying things when we’re on them. They sell brackets and railing at the big box stores. Find the studs and pre-drill the holes for the large screws. The drill bit should be the size of the inner shaft of the screw (not the threads – they need something to bite).
Put grab bars in the bathroom. Baths are particularly nasty places for falls with their combination of slippery surfaces and hard elements to land on. Grab bars can be a reasonable DIY project if you have a drill and follow the directions. If you think they look too clinical visit the plumbing supply showroom or search the internet. There are dozens of designer options.
Don’t be dumb when you need to reach something up high. If it isn’t a step stool or ladder, don’t climb on it. The only thing worse than falling and splitting your head open is telling the paramedic you did it standing on a tricycle to change a light bulb. Also, ladders and stools have working heights for a reason. Don’t stand on the top rung!
Do I need a new dishwasher?
Many of our kitchen clients come to the project hoping that a new dishwasher will eliminate filmy or cloudy glassware. However, the machine may not be problem. A little knowledge and some experimentation will improve current dishwasher performance and help you make a good decision about replacement.
First things first – Is the machine working properly?
A dishwasher is a simple machine. It’s a pump inside a box hooked to a timer. It sprays water on your dishes and then pumps that water out into the drain. That’s it. To determine if it’s working properly, open the door during the wash cycle. Is everything wet? Are the washer arms moving freely? The dishes have to be evenly and repeatedly wetted or they won’t get clean. A common problem is the little holes in the washer arms getting clogged (clean out with a toothpick). Other issues are loading items in a way that blocks a washer arm, overloading and nesting items. If the dirty side of the dish isn’t open and facing the spray, it won’t get clean.
OK, the mechanical and loading issues check out but your glassware still looks icky. What gives?
Now we’re into chemistry. Dishwashing detergent is a mix of chemical compounds that attach to food residue and are then rinsed away. How well they accomplish this depends on 1. The specific compounds in the detergent, 2. The concentration of those compounds in the wash water, 3. Temperature, 4. Time and 5. The amount and type of soil. Change the chemistry and you change your cleaning result.
So where do I start?
1. Compounds and their concentration: Check to see if the haze on your glassware comes off with vinegar or a product like CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover). If it does, you have food and/or mineral residue so you likely need more detergent or adifferent detergent or both. If the haze doesn’t come off, the glass is actually etched so you need less detergent or a differentdetergent or both. (Unfortunately, the etching is permanent so you’ll have to live with it or replace the glassware). If you use an economy brand detergent, try a premium brand for a while. The formulations are different. If you already use a premium, try a different one. (At my home in Vestavia, we get better results with Cascade Complete).
2. Heat: The action of the detergent is faster in hot water. If the water is too cool, it may not be able to clean everything off before the cycle ends. If your hot water takes a long time to hit the kitchen sink, use the water pre-heat feature found on most machines (the drying elements comes on and heats the water).
3. Time: Many dishwashers have multiple cycles. Unfortunately, they usually don’t say “long” or “short”. Experiment and find out which one is the long wash cycle and use it.
4. Not pre-rinsing: Yes, I said not. Many detergents have enzymes that need to be activated by food residue. If they don’t find it, they just float around as crystals that may scratch the glass.
A little patient experimentation will pay dividends in the form of better cleaning results whether your dishwasher is old or new.
NEW SUNROOMS ARE NOT JUST FOR SUMMER FUN
Designs Offer Natural Light, Panoramic Views and Year Long Enjoyment
It’s every owner’s dream to have more livable space in their existing home. So as homeowners remodel, they are constantly exploring ways to get the most out of their space by designing rooms with a purpose in mind. Sunrooms have become a reemerging trend on the radar screen for homeowners because they provide a year-round, multi-functional area with more natural light, good views and an abundance of livable space without sacrificing comfort.
More and more homeowners are seeing the immediate value in sunrooms as practical year round spaces. Allowing more natural light into the house and mixing the outdoors with indoor living space are two of their strongest attributes.
The rise in popularity among homeowners can be attributed to new design amenities such as sky lights, arching windows, sliding doors, and high performance, climate controlled glass. Previous sunrooms designs consisted of glassed-in porches or decks that were not suited to handle outside climate changes. Over the years, they have evolved into elegant showplaces providing the beauty of outdoor surroundings even when the weather is too hot, too cold, or too rainy to go outside.
No matter what region of the country you live in, sunrooms offer so much versatility for entertaining family and guests or relaxing from the daily grind. They are also a good return on investment when its time to sell your home.
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